How did spring rolls get their name? This delicate but filling appetizer has its origins in the annual Chinese Spring Festival. The first spring rolls featured fresh vegetables from the harvest; meat was added later. To transform vegetable spring rolls into a truly vegetarian appetizer, use vegetarian oyster sauce (made with mushrooms).

What you need:

* 2 ounces cellophane noodles or rice vermicelli
* 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
* 1 onion, finely chopped
* 2 cloves garlic, chopped
* 2 tablespoons peeled and grated fresh ginger
* 2 cups shredded green cabbage
* 2 carrots, peeled and grated
* 1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
* 1 cup fresh bean sprouts, rinsed
* 2 teaspoons fish sauce
* 2 teaspoons cornstarch mixed in 2 tablespoons water
* 18-20 frozen spring roll wrappers, thawed
* Vegetable oil for deep frying
* Thai sweet chili sauce for serving

Procedure:

Place mushrooms in small bowl, add boiling water to cover and let stand for 10-15 minutes. Drain and squeeze out excess liquid. Thinly slice mushrooms, discarding tough stems. Soak noodles in boiling water for 10 minutes. Drain and roughly chop into short lengths.

In wok or frying pan over medium-high heat, warm 2 tablespoons oil. Add onion, garlic and ginger and cook until softened, about 2 minutes. Add cabbage and stir-fry until cabbage is softened, 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in carrots, cilantro, bean sprouts, noodles, mushrooms and fish sauce. Mix well and cool completely.

Separate spring roll wrappers, place on a work surface and cover with damp kitchen towel. Working with one wrapper at a time, place on work surface. Using your fingertips, wet edges with cornstarch and water mixture. Place 1 heaped tablespoon filling in middle of wrapper. Roll up diagonally, tucking in edges. Seal edge with cornstarch and water mixture. Repeat with remaining wrappers.

Heat oil in wok or frying pan until it reaches 375 degrees F on deep-frying thermometer or until small bread cube dropped in oil sizzles and turns golden. Working in batches, add rolls and fry until golden, 1-2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove from pan and drain on paper towels.

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